Renaissance of The Loire October 2009

The late Autumn sunshine saw us bowling down one of those splendidly deserted French roads, sentineled by whispering poplars, on the way to a short break near Amboise on the Loire.

Obviously, as we were staying with friends, we used the opportunity to go out for a rather special meal, and at my suggestion they allowed me to choose the wine for each course from the Loire region. There were one or two who frowned at this decision but they kindly relented and allowed me to be their guide.

We started with a delightful Petillant wine from Montlouis, refreshing and very easy drinking.

For the white wine with the first course I felt a bit extravagant and choose a Savennieres from Domaine du Closel. Unfortunately I committed the sin of not recalling the vintage, it certainly had age and the wonderful maturity of the Chenin Blanc grape and was appreciated by everyone.

For the red there was a debate but finally a Saumur Champigny from Chateau de Villeneuve 2002 was selected and there were no complaints.

As you may realise we were not watching the Euro cents on this occasion, so when looking for a dessert wine I found there was a Domaine de Montgilet - Cuvee Prestige Le Terteraux 1979- half bottles on the list so no further search was required!

I would not pretend for one moment it was a cheap occasion, but excellent value for money. I think the Loire represents excellent value for money and choosing matching wines from other, better known, regions of France would have cost half as much again.

The general consensus was fantastic wines for our friend's sixtieth birthday.

Wines from the Loire are often overlooked and difficult for a merchant to sell, but may I suggest that choosing wines at £3-£4 per bottle above the norm will give you many pleasant surprises.

RG.